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When you buy it, it’s ready to drink.
Recently back from Paris, what could I possibly be writing about? Why Champagne, I know you guessed.
Despite disruptions and unprecedented weather issues for growers, there has been a bounce-back, particularly in the U.S., of corks popping across America. According to the WSJ, the bounce is in the form of a 62% increase on the previous year, making the U.S the 2nd largest champagne consumer in the world, after France.
Not Just any Champagne
… for Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt—fourth generation of the family-owned champagne house Laurent-Perrier and its Grand Siècle representative—another interesting trend stands out.
“We’ve seen a rise in interest in prestige cuvées and consumption is going up,” she says, referencing the ultra-luxe releases produced by a champagne house to represent the pinnacle of their output. “The mentality is changing, and perhaps those people who were previously obsessed with Burgundy and Bordeaux are starting to recognize that these champagnes are fine wines in their own right.”
Served at special occasions attended by nobility and celebrities for centuries, prestige cuvée is proving an increasingly popular signifier of status.
Consumption Is Increasing
Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siecle represents an interesting trend: there is an increasing interest in prestige cuvees, the ultra-luxe releases produced by a champagne house to represent the pinnacle of its output.
Yet for Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt—fourth generation of the family-owned champagne house Laurent-Perrier and its Grand Siècle representative—another interesting trend stands out. “We’ve seen a rise in interest in prestige cuvées and consumption is going up,” she says, referencing the ultra-luxe releases produced by a champagne house to represent the pinnacle of their output.
“The mentality is changing,” she adds, “and perhaps those people who were previously obsessed with Burgundy and Bordeaux are starting to recognize that these champagnes are fine wines in their own right.”
From Christie’s auction house:
The start of 2021 exceeded expectations in terms of shipments, consumption and how much prices have increased—and the market has performed incredibly strongly ever since. Last year people realized that there is a lot to celebrate and champagne is the best choice for that.
Prestige Cuvee: A Special Occasion Beverage
Served at special occasions attended by nobility and celebrities for centuries, prestige cuvée is proving an increasingly popular signifier of status., adds the WSJ.
Many champagne houses produce a prestige cuvée—often the product of one vintage. Laurent-Perrier, however, takes a fascinating alternative approach: instead it uses an assemblage of wines from three vintage years to produce its Grand Siècle in a process that dates back to 1959.
“When my grandfather created our first prestige cuvée, his vision was of a champagne that would develop aromatic complexity over time while retaining its freshness,” says Ms. Pereyre de Nonancourt. “Based on his winemaking experience, he felt that one vintage alone could not achieve this, which is why he decided to blend three exceptional vintages, using their complementary characteristics to create the ‘perfect year’ that nature could not give us on its own.”
Madame Pereyre de Nonancourt’s grandfather’s concept certainly worked. This year’s arrival of Grand Siècle’s 25th iteration represents the number of occasions that Laurent-Perrier has assembled three complementary vintages together to create such a blend, writes the WSJ.
Once three vintages are chosen, they are blended before spending at least 10 years aging on lees—natural particles from fermentation that add finesse—with this iteration comprising wines from the 2008, 2007 and 2006 vintages, selected from grand cru parcels of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes. It is very rare for Grand Siècle to be made with three sequential vintages, and this has happened only once before now.
The resulting champagne is a vibrant marriage of structure and freshness, defined by lemon and grapefruit on the nose, aromatic complexity on the palate and a lengthy finish that retains a hint of citrus. Besides making an exceptional aperitif, its nuanced expression also offers up exciting potential for food pairings.
Oenological reasons are also helping drive global interest in prestige cuvées, with Mr. Tiptree (Christie’s) noting that the quality of the category right now is higher than ever. “
“There has been a lot of care and attention taken in their production, which tends to center around the best vineyards and grand cru sites and the most meticulous, innovative winemaking techniques,” the Christie’s expert says.
A Cause for Celebration
“It’s an interesting time for lovers of champagne right now because there’s a lot of good stuff out there.”
“Something that—in itself—is cause for celebration.”
I’ll be sure to let the Survival Guy know.
Cheers!
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