As many Parisians leave the city for vacations in August, those who remain behind are grateful to have more of the place to themselves. In The New York Times, Catherine Porter explains the “sleepy, roomy, more friendly” Paris that remains when so many have left it behind. She writes:

An Ipsos vacation poll of 23 countries taken over the winter showed that 82 percent of those surveyed in France intended to take a vacation in the summer — mostly to a French beach.

The herd mentality protects the ritual, said Laetitia Vitaud, a researcher who studies work trends.

“People rest better when they rest together,” she said (from Normandy, where she was on vacation). “Real work disconnection becomes possible because everyone does it at the same time.”

But what about the forgotten few left behind?

“I was sad the first year I was here and not on vacation, but now I appreciate it,” said Tanguy Azéma, a repairman for a bike rental company who was taking a break by the Seine among a clump of empty lounge chairs. Across the river, a gold weather vane gleamed from atop one of the Conciergerie’s ancient turrets. The view was unfettered by people or boats.

“I have the feeling in August that the city is reserved just for me,” he said.

Many locals revel in the un-Paris-like atmosphere. You can coast on your bike, unassaulted by frenzied traffic, they note. Museums — at least those not included on tourist must-see lists — are close to empty: no neck craning or lining-up necessary.

“Can you believe I drove to the Seine and found a parking spot near the Eiffel Tower?” said Kim Hoang, a chiropractor. The traffic was so thin, he added, he arrived early to meet his out-of-town relatives for a boat tour. “It’s the best time of the year,” he said.

Even if not on vacation, Parisians left in the city go into a power-saving mode. They often start work late and close up shop early. They saunter, unrushed.

Read more here.