A good case of “dollar cost averaging” gone amuck. L’Ami Louis isn’t meant for one, two, or even three people. To appreciate, book a table for 6 or more. Not cheap, definitely special. That’s why it has been called the world’s most controversial restaurant. Delicious with abrupt service. Wouldn’t miss it for the world. Below, Kasia Deitz describes her experience at Chez L’Ami Louis in Business Insider:
I dined at Chez L’Ami Louis for the first time to see what the buzz was all about. Kasia Dietz
The seemingly exorbitant prices displayed on the menu by the door have long kept me from heading inside, but it’s no secret this 100-year-old Haut Marais hot spot is among the city’s most famous bistros.
With such a reputation, it’s perhaps not surprising Europe’s richest man, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, bought a majority stake in the bistro in June. Financial details of the deal were not disclosed.
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In a statement, LVMH (the French luxury-goods conglomerate that owns big names like Louis Vuitton) called Chez L’Ami Louis “a go-to destination for those seeking an authentic culinary experience in the capital.”
Even so, the bistro has famously had mixed reviews — it has 3.5 stars on Yelp, and a common criticism is that its prices are far too high.
Either way, I was curious to try Chez L’Ami Louis and form my own impression.
It was easier to make a reservation in person than by phone
Chez L’Ami Louis has its menu posted outside its storefront. Kasia Dietz
The restaurant only has about 12 tables, so I knew making a reservation was my best bet if I wanted to get dinner here.
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Reservations can’t be made online, and I tried to make one by calling but was unsuccessful. (After reading many reviews, it seems it can be hard to get someone from the bistro on the phone).
Since I live nearby, I tried my luck visiting in person on a Wednesday morning in late June. Even before the lunch seating, the atmosphere at Chez L’Ami Louis appeared inviting.
As I entered the pre-war space, I was greeted by crates of fresh fruits and vegetables covering the aged wooden tables. Half a dozen staff were bringing the bistro back to life following its two-day repose (it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays).
I walked to the back counter, where a solemn man asked if he could assist me. I asked for a reservation in French — a table for two, s’il vous plaît.
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He studied his notebook and suggested a dinner seating for the following week. I eagerly booked a table for two on Sunday night.
Our reservation almost fell through, but we got lucky
My husband and I arrived at Chez L‘Ami Louis promptly at 8 p.m. on the night of our dinner date.
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The wait staff was in the midst of their nightly plating performance as I slinked past the 12 buzzing tables to let the host know we’d arrived.
After glancing at the reservation list, he looked back up at me and shook his head. He asked if I’d called yesterday to confirm my table, and my heart sank.
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I’d misunderstood when I made my reservation: I had been expecting a confirmation call from them, as is the standard practice by many top restaurants.
Maybe the maître d’ was moved by the dumbfounded, desperate look on my face, or we just got lucky. He told us to come back at 9 p.m.
When we returned, all eyes were on us
Chez L’Ami Louis had wood chairs, baskets of fresh fruit, and a busy floor pattern. Kasia Dietz
After a convivial apéritif in the neighborhood, we returned to the same curious stares from diners who were now onto their next courses. I smiled graciously as a nook was cleared, and we settled into the salmon-cloth-covered table.
Oval mirrors lined the brown lacquered walls, and the trippy black-and-white tiled floor felt like a statement. Near the open kitchen, baskets overflowing with ripe fruit looked prepped for a royal banquet.
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A server in a white button-down and black tie brought us menus, and asked if we preferred still or sparkling water.
The prices were still a bit tough to swallow
I’d been intimidated by the Chez L’Ami Louis prices before. Kasia Dietz
I was tempted to order the fish of the day, but the price seemed so high — 150 euros (about $163) — that I’m not sure I would’ve been able to really enjoy it.
Was the côte de bœuf (rib steak) for two more reasonable at 205 euros? I wasn’t sure. I’ve seen fish and meat dishes cost less at even Michelin-star restaurants.
We settled on the signature dishes of escargot (50 euros) and roast chicken (clearly for two with a price tag of 120 euros), then asked for the wine list.
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A leather-bound tome arrived with an extensive selection of wines from around the country.
Chez L’Ami Louis has an extensive wine list. Kasia Dietz
The bistro’s well-stocked cellar apparently has thousands of bottles. With house wine at 25 euros a glass, we ordered a half bottle of Bordeaux at 65 euros, which felt like a bargain.
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