Babkas in Paris

By Grafvision @ Adobe Stock

In The New York Times, Joan Nathan reveals the new trend in Paris bakeries, babkas. She writes:

A recent visit to the Julien Filoche Pâtisserie, on the Left Bank of Paris, confirmed what friends had been telling me. An exciting new trend was emerging in the form of an old dish: babka.

At this charming shop, brioche and croissants shared equal status on the shelves with babkas laced with pink candied almonds and orange flower water or gooey chunks of chocolate and roasted hazelnuts, in contrast with more traditional versions that employ cinnamon or cocoa powder. When I asked Mr. Filoche why he started making such fancy babka, he said that he liked experimenting with the yeasty, buttery dough, so akin to brioche.

“People don’t even know if babka is Jewish, or is it Polish?” said my friend, the cookbook author Sheila Malovany-Chevallier. (Babka, a Polish, Ukrainian and Yiddish word meaning “little grandmother,” first came to Paris with Polish Jewish immigrants in the late 19th century.)

“For the moment,” though, she added, “it seems to be artisanal.” To prove her point, she urged me to visit more bakeries, especially Babka Zana, which was among the leaders of the craze.

So I crossed the Seine to the picturesque Place de Vosges. Outside Babka Zana, a sleek Brooklynesque bakery in total contrast to Julien Filoche, was a long line of hipsters waiting, of course, for brioche and croissants, but mostly there for the babka.

Read more here.

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Debbie Young
Debbie, our chief political writer of Richardcyoung.com, is also our chief domestic affairs writer, a contributing writer on Eastern Europe and Paris and Burgundy, France. She has been associate editor of Dick Young’s investment strategy reports for over five decades. Debbie lives in Key West, Florida, and Newport, Rhode Island, and travels extensively in Paris and Burgundy, France, cooking on her AGA Cooker, and practicing yoga. Debbie has completed the 200-hour Krama Yoga teacher training program taught by Master Instructor Ruslan Kleytman. Debbie is a strong supporting member of the NRA.