Food writer Dorie Greenspan shares her recent Paris discoveries—from classic literary cafes and new wine bars to standout restaurants and irresistible sweet spots.
She highlights favorites like neighborhood cafés, innovative ice cream and wine bars, top dining spots such as Kodawari Ramen and Mokonuts, and exceptional bakeries around rue Montorgueil offering cookies, doughnuts, and other treats.
Dorie also includes a couple of recipes so readers can bring a taste of Paris home. She writes:
When we first moved to Paris, I’d work at home during the day and then, late in the afternoon, I’d take my work out to a cafe for a glass of wine and a good edit. For many years, we lived steps from Place Saint-Germain des Prés in the sixth arrondissement, and I’d alternate between the neighborhood’s two great cafes. Some days I’d work at a back banquette at the Café Deux Magots – my favorite seat was under the picture of Ernest Hemingway and Janet Flanner, who chronicled Paris life for The New Yorker – and some days at a corner table along the wall at the Café de Flore. Both places were considered great literary cafes. Both were homes-away-from-home for Sartre and de Beauvoir, who were rumored to go to one cafe until their bills came due, and then take up residence in the other. We still live in the 6 th, but now we’re a few blocks from those cafes. And, while I still go to them both, you can usually find me at Les Editeurs, the perfect name for a place to write and edit. These days, I work there for a while in the morning over coffee and in the afternoon over wine.
Cafés & Neighborhood Favorites
Café Deux Magots – iconic literary café in Saint‑Germain‑des‑Prés
Café de Flore – historic Saint‑Germain café
Les Editeurs – relaxed café ideal for coffee or wine and writing
Le Comptoir – beloved bistro across the street
Pierre Hermé Café – for Ispahan croissants
Ice cream shop on rue de l’Ancienne Comédie – fun new spot by Le Procope
Augustin – natural wine bar with small plates
Restaurants Across the River
Kodawari Ramen – ramen with a Tsukiji market vibe
Juveniles – wine bar on rue de Richelieu
Ellsworth – stylish small‑plates restaurant
Mokonuts – acclaimed restaurant with memorable turbot and cookies
Le Grand Bain – casual small plates and fried shrimp
Le Rigmarole – inventive yakitori and pasta fusion
Sweets Around Rue Montorgueil
Frenchie – influential restaurant on rue du Nil
Stohrer – historic pastry shop
Fou de Patisserie – modern pastry spot
Stoney Clove Bakery – American‑style sweets
Jean Hwang Carrant Cookies – cookie shop
Boneshaker Doughnuts – must‑visit doughnut shop
Read more here.
