RichardCYoung.com » Key West Insider

A Once in a Lifetime Chance

Richard C. Young — Thu, 13 Jan 2011 17:27:23 +0000

If the names Julia Child, Roy Blount, Jr., Julia Reed, Billy Collins, Jason Epstein, Madhur Jaffrey, Judith Jones, Molly O’Neil, Ruth Reichl, and Calvin Trillin mean anything to you—or if you’ve seen the movie Julie & Julia—read on. Lucky me. This past weekend, Debbie and I were fortunate to meet and speak with, or simply sit and enjoy hearing from, these world-class speakers (except Julia Child, of course) on the subject of food. Each was featured at the recent Key West Literary Seminar, overseen by our friend Lynn Kaufelt, president of the seminar. Perhaps our island city’s foremost realtor, Lynn was one of the first people we met in Key West two decades ago.

To say that this year’s seminar was one of the finest Debbie and I have attended is probably an understatement. If you ever listen to Wait Wait… Don’t Tell Me on NPR, you know how funny Roy Blount, Jr., can be. You may also have caught up with Roy in the pages of Sports Illustrated. Julia Reed, for 20 years a contributing editor at Vogue and author of the The House On First Street: My New Orleans Story, entertained the audience with comic narratives on Southern-style eating and drinking.

As a young woman working in France, Judith Jones was responsible for rescuing The Diary of Ann Frank and getting Doubleday to publish it. Judith was also the editor upon whose desk Julia Child’s first masterpiece landed. It was she who convinced Knopf to publish it. Judith came up with the name for the book—Mastering the Art of French Cooking—and, as someone noted, who in the world would have thought that a gerund in a book’s title would be a good idea? Remember the scene in the movie Julie & Julia when an editor/critic was supposed to come to Julie’s for boeuf bourguignon? Judith Jones explained how it all happened, why Julia Child was disdainful of Julie and her little project, and why she, Judith, opted to cancel dinner. Over the years, Judith worked closely with James Beard, Marcella Hazen, Claudia Roden, Madhur Jaffrey, and Jacques Pépin. In her time off, she and her cousin raise grass-fed-to-finish cattle in the Northeast Kingdom—known for being a great source of farm-to-table food, as well as, for us, one of the most beautiful areas in Vermont for our Harley riding.

Not surprisingly, Madhur Jaffrey, the high priestess of Indian culture and cooking, was a big hit at the seminar. She also graciously showed up this chilly Key West morning at the Help Yourself organic café, which we visit often, to give a cooking demonstration. How kind of Madhur. All the Key West locals fortunate enough to be at the impromptu event could not believe their good fortune in partaking of scrambled eggs and breakfast potatoes à la Jaffrey.

I have listed only a handful of the marvelous speakers in attendance at the San Carlos Institute. Click to kwls.org for all the details on next year’s extravaganza. Debbie and I are fortunate to live just several blocks from the San Carlos and to have the opportunity to participate in such a compelling, fun literary seminar. We loved all of the talented speakers, but Molly O’Neill (sister of Yankee legend Paul O’Neill) and Julia Reed would be my personal choices as speakers at a special event. Each brought the house down, and both were great moderators. I had the opportunity to speak with Molly about her visit to Key West. She could not have been more gracious, warm, and genuinely enthusiastic. It has been my experience at many conferences through the years that noteworthy and gifted speakers are frequently far less convivial in one-on-one encounters. Not the case with Molly. It was a pleasure to have an opportunity to hear Molly speak and to meet her in person.

I am just a little biased on the subject of the Key West Literary Seminar, Key West in general, and all that goes with life on a small, semi-tropical island only 90 miles from Cuba. Make it a point to visit Key West soon. You will find lots to like. Before you visit, read up on it at Richardcyoung.com in my Key West Insider archives. Make it a great trip.

Warm regards,

Dick

Shakti Key West

Deborah Young — Wed, 15 Dec 2010 18:58:11 +0000

We all know that Key West is loaded with great musicians, terrific things to do, and wonderful places to eat and drink. But when you have had your fill of the Green Parrot, Schooner Bar, Seven Fish, Michael’s, Café Marquesa, La Crêperie, shopping at Blue, Besame Mucho, Archeo Gallery, Fast Buck Freddie’s, and Hands On, or fishing, boating, or swimming at Fort Zach, and you think you’ll explode if you have one more café con leche and Cuban cheese toast from 5 Brothers, there is relief.

For being so isolated and hedonistic, Key West also has an extremely educated community dedicated to fitness and health. Topping the list is Shakti Yoga, run by Sofia Artola. Sofia and her staff offer classes ranging from challenging and moderate vinyasa flow to hatha yoga to gentle and restorative classes. All are wonderful, and all are fun. Mats are available at the studio, which is a short walk or bike ride from anywhere in Old Town, so you have no excuse not to go. Go to ShaktiKeyWest.com for a schedule. And a class at Shakti might even help justify your next buckwheat crêpe.

Namaste,

Debbie

Getting Away: Part 2 – Winter Getaway

Richard C. Young — Tue, 07 Dec 2010 20:38:39 +0000

If you are giving any thought to battling the TSA at U.S. airport security so you can head to the Caribbean this winter, I have a better idea. Instead, make a reservation at the nicest resort in the Florida Keys.

For my 70^th birthday, Debbie surprised me with a stay at Westin’s Sunset Key Guest Cottages (reserve at 800-937-8461). The resort has received a major-league facelift since our last visit. Previously, I felt that the resort, while certainly nice, was overrated. Well, I no longer think so. There is no better high-end resort in the Keys. And since the Keys offer the only subtropical weather in America, if you are as thin-blooded as I am, they’re a great place to stay warm. Florida has a number of temperature zones. In January, it can easily be 20 degrees cooler in northern Florida than in Key West.

Now I do not recommend Sunset Key Guest Cottages as a bargain getaway. Quite the contrary. You won’t pay as much as you would for a stay at, say, The Inn at Little Washington, but your Amex Platinum Card will take a hard hit nonetheless. But cheap is cheap, isn’t it? And just think of all those bonus points you will rack up. Meanwhile, you will have eschewed the hassle and expense of an annoying foray to some offshore retreat. You will also save a couple of travel days in the bargain. If you have not been here before, you may enjoy flying into Miami, renting a car, and driving the 145 miles or so down the Keys. It is a pretty ride over the nearly 50 causeways and bridges that run through the ocean on your way down to Key West. On a nice day, it can be fun. Stop for lunch at the World Wide Sportsman at mile marker 81 on your right. It’s hard to miss. You can enjoy the massive Sportsman department store before wandering down to the water and having lunch at the tiki hut restaurant.

If you decide that a car schlep down the Keys is not your cup of tea, we now have three jet options: Delta, US Airways, and AirTran. A car in Key West is not necessary as walking the streets and alleys is part of Old Town’s appeal. From the airport, your colorful Key West cabbie will take you directly to the reservation desk at the Westin, where you will check in and be given walking directions to the Sunset Key launch, which will ferry you over to the private island retreat in minutes. The launch runs every half hour, so when you are ready to come back to Key West to shop at Blue or Besame Mucho and have lunch at La Crêperie (kitty-corner from Besame Mucho), you will be all set.

Sunset Key offers you beautiful dining and bars both inside and outside, along with a nifty outdoor grill around its beautiful pool. We loved our two-bedroom, three-bath cottage with an efficiency kitchen. Sunset Key is perfect for a family or friends getaway or a small corporate retreat. Sunset Key also has a number of high-end, Victorian-style private residences if you are interested in real estate.

OK then, off you go to the Keys. And if you are like me and don’t want to fuss with travel details, simply click to my recommendation of Ryland Stacy. Ryland will do all the heavy lifting for you. Ryland was responsible for making Debbie’s and my trip to France such a booming success. I would not make a move without her, and I do not recommend many folk on any front, period. Have a great time in the Keys. I will be adding additional Keys features over the winter. You can already click to Lifestyle on my home page for lots of initial ideas. Good luck.

Warm regards,

Dick

Getting Away!

Richard C. Young — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 18:57:41 +0000

Soon it will be dark and freezing in most of our northern and midwestern states. Depression will build, and tempers will shorten. As brother Bluto said in Animal House, it’s time for a road trip. With the homeland security hassle at airports, I think more and more Americans will opt to stay in the U.S.A. So where to go? Over two decades ago, I found the answer: Key West. Debbie and I liked our initial visits to Key West so much that we moved to the Keys in 1992 and have lived here since. We are therefore in a pretty good position to help you travel to Key West like an insider.

Where to start? For their first breakfast or lunch in Key West, our family always wants to go to La Crêperie at 300 Petronia in the heart of Bahama Village. It’s directly across from the excellent Blue Heaven restaurant and bar and right down the street from Besame Mucho, an apothecary, home goods and clothing emporium, and more, which Debbie visits regularly.

We are big on La Crêperie and, in fact, have a considerable bias. We have known the owners, Yolande and Sylvie, for over a decade. In fact, Yolande made the wedding cakes for both Matt’s and Becky’s weddings in Key West. So yes, we have a horse in the race when it comes to the little French café on Petronia Street. Sit at the counter like a local so you can watch Sylvie turn out La Crêperie’s fabulous buckwheat crêpes. Have some French wine at lunch and stick around for a while. No one is in any rush in the Keys, and you are on vacation, right? So kick back and relax. You are in a real French café.

Yolande and Sylvie offer exactly the good cheer and ambiance you might expect on the Left Bank in Paris or in the cafés of the Burgundy countryside. The French countryside murals were painted by an out-of-town visitor who simply showed up one day. The artist used pictures from Yolande’s native village in Brittany. Have Yolande tell you the story. You may find yourself waited on by Yolande’s new daughter-in-law Allison or her sister Katy. Lucky you. You will love the girls and be treated like a member of the family.

Key West is all about the little neighborhood places, not touristy Duval Street, though there are a few must-hit spots on Duval I will tell you about in coming weeks. Well then, off you go to the Keys. As you plan your trip, I would be remiss in not mentioning the blue-chip tour-planning services of Ryland Stacy, who orchestrated Debbie’s and my extensive research foray to France this fall. Ryland will add big-time value to your Key West vacation. You’re going to have a great time and will want to return to the Keys over the years. Have fun.

Warm regards,

Dick

Key West Guide

Richard C. Young — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 13:36:51 +0000

As on most small islands, the Key West locals can guide you to the spots you really want to enjoy and steer you away from the tourist traps. Number one on the tourist traps list in Key West is most tourists’ favorite, Duval Street. Yes, there are some spots not to miss on Duval, but not many. You will want to spend most of your time in Key West’s funky Conch neighborhoods, waterfront locals’ favorites, and hidden lanes, for which Key West is sought out by seasoned visitors. Over the next couple of months, I’ll provide you with an all-inclusive menu of Key West insider dos and don’ts when spending a tropical vacation where Jimmy Buffett records most of his studio albums, Hemingway made Sloppy Joe’s the most talked about watering hole in the South, Hunter S. Thompson terrorized one and all, and the immortal Shel Silverstein did some of his best work.

To begin: yes, Sloppy Joe’s is still worth a visit for a few beers. It opens at 9:00 a.m. daily, and you might be surprised at the number of folk who actually believe in the old Key West slogan “If it ain’t beer, it ain’t breakfast.” For the most part, however, you will want to shy away from the places most tourists visit and seek out the little gems patronized by the local Conchs.

Get yourself on the right track early each morning (except Sunday) with a con leche (strong Cuban coffee with hot milk ) and toasted Cuban bread at 5 Brothers Grocery on Southard Street midway between Duval and White Street. You’ll be in the heart of Old Town and will get a good flavor of a real Key West neighborhood. If you’re lucky, you will wait in line with the locals and hear the local gossip and color. Don’t be in a rush. Things move slowly in the Keys, and few people are in any kind of a rush. After you pick up your con leche, walk west on Southard one block to Mangia, Mangia, another local favorite, for pasta. Mangia can fill up fast after sunset, so expect a wait if you show up after the Mallory Square Sunset Celebration. Diagonally from Mangia on Margaret Street is Michaels. Michaels is one of the better top-end restaurants in Key West. Be sure to call ahead for reservations. The menu is excellent, with great steaks as well as local fish dishes. Have a great time in Key West.

Best Key West Travel Tip

Richard C. Young — Wed, 26 May 2010 15:53:23 +0000

Your best bet for getting to Key West with the least hassle is to fly Delta and connect in Atlanta nonstop to Key West. I like to fly as early in the day as possible, in case you miss a flight and need to catch a later one. Atlanta has at least one really nice Delta Crown Room, a must when traveling with little kids. But a fun way to go if you have some time and are not traveling safari-style with the kids is to fly Jet Blue nonstop into Fort Myers, rent a car, and make what can be a pleasant, sunny drive down through the keys.

If you are rushed, hate driving, or are on a tight schedule, I’d opt for plan A. If not, there is some fun to be had driving down the keys. You’ll head south from the Fort Myers airport and pick up Route 75, which turns east and becomes what locals refer to as Alligator Alley. You’ll drive east in fast-moving, easy traffic to the Florida Turnpike, which will take you south to Florida City, a tacky highway intersection. Here you will simply continue on into the Florida Keys. You’ll come to the Marriott Resort in Key Largo. At that point you will have driven a not-too-stressful three hours or so. If that’s enough for you for the day or you are already going to be running into the mid-afternoon, I’d book ahead for a night at the resort.

Your next move will be to continue your drive down A1A. At mile marker 81 or so, you will come to the huge World Wide Sportsman. It will be on your right, flying a huge American flag out front. You can’t miss it. If you like fishing, you will have found your Mecca. If not, you’ll still enjoy fish sandwiches on the dock, and a great fish store is at hand if you need some fish to go. On the way down the Keys, you can have fun at Theatre of the Sea, Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, and John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Bahia Honda State Park offers probably the best of a very weak group of Keys beaches. Quite honestly, you’re not going to the Keys for the beach. The best place for lunch in the lower keys is the Square Grouper at about mile marker 22.5 on Cudjoe Key.

From there you will coast on into Key West with nary a stir. I hope you will not get hung up in an A1A traffic accident. These things do unfortunately occur more than any of us would like. Just get out a book, crack a cold beer, and wait it out on the beach like a conch. Have a great time in the keys. And oh yes, when you hit Tavernier just south of Key Largo, on your left will be the Tavernier Hotel, made famous in song by Jimmy Buffett.

The Best Month to Visit Key West

Richard C. Young — Thu, 20 May 2010 20:05:04 +0000

In January, you run the risk of real cool weather. In February, your cool weather risk is 50/50. So wait until March. Even better, wait until after Easter, when the college spring break crowd and snowbirds have split. The town will be much calmer, and you will be able to get reservations at one of my small handful of approved Key West restaurants. May and June are beautiful but getting hot, which is fine by me. In July, you had better be a hot-weather person for certain. If you’re not, I’d cross out July and August, and certainly the deadly hot September hurricane-risk season. October is fine, but you may be in the camp that is not quite up for Key West Fantasy Fest. November and December are fine choices, but— no surprise— you will want to reserve early. Have a great time, and don’t miss out on a visit to the Truman winter White House. It’s a nice, nostalgic tour. Next week, I’ll post you on how to get to Key West with some degree of comfort. It is quite easy to make a hash of the trip.

La Crêperie

Richard C. Young — Mon, 03 May 2010 14:12:24 +0000

Yolande, Becky, Deb, & Izzy

As a long-time Key West resident, I can help you enjoy your island getaway like an insider. When you are on vacation, you don’t want to waste time on tourist dumps. You don’t want to dine with the masses. You don’t want to be duped, run in circles, or dumped in with the schlubs. No, you want to go where Jimmy Buffett goes and where Hemingway and the immortal Hunter S. Thompson went. I can help. Not long ago I was sitting in Harpoon Harry’s with one of our iconic local legends. Quite honestly, just about every local in town thinks of himself as somewhat of a legend. And you know what? More so then most any other little city in America, it’s probably true. So anyway, I’m in Harpoon Harry’s with my friend, who this sultry early morning is recounting to me the three (yup three) times he was nearly killed by hanging out with Hunter S. Thompson. If you know anything about the legend of HST, you know my friend was not kidding. Just check in with Johnny Depp, HST’s number one running mate.

Four Generations at La Crêperie.

Eclectic little Key West has so much to offer that you’ll find it hard to know where to begin. But you have me to put you on track with my weekly Key West Insider. This week I want to send you and your gang into Bahama Village to 300 Petronia Street, right across from Blue Heaven. You’ll be at La Crêperie, owned by our friends Yolande and Sylvie, both from Brittany. When we are in town, you might run in to us any day of the week early in the A.M., or for lunch, or for an afternoon cappuccino and sweet crepe. Just this spring, when Deb’s mom, Beck, E.J., and the kids were here, we had four generations of our family sitting at La Crêperie’s counter watching Sylvie expertly and cheerfully make her delicious assortment of sweet and savory crepes. Debbie and I have known Yolande for over a decade. She, in fact, made the wedding cakes for both Matt’s and Becky’s weddings. You’ll know you have found a most special little hideaway from the minute you walk in the door of La Crêperie, and be sure to say hi from us. Depending on your day of arrival, you may find your venerable self waited on by Yolande herself, or her soon-to-be daughter-in-law, Allison, or her sister Katie. If so, your authentic French cafe experience will be just that much more delightful. So enjoy and bon appetite.

Four Generations at La Crêperie.

Sylvie and Yolande at La Crêperie

Antonia’s

Richard C. Young — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 13:50:52 +0000

When my family comes to town, the first place they all want to go to dinner is our oldest Key West favorite, Antonia’s. Don’t be put off by the commercial Duval Street location. Call ahead for reservations at one of Antonia’s special big family tables. Christopher, the owner, will treat you with care. When it’s just Debbie and me, we’ll have dinner at the bar and talk local gossip with T.K., Tiffany, and Justin. You won’t have to be in town long to get the feel that Key West’s Conches and most long-time locals love to gossip and spread the word about all things local and tropical, perhaps even Jimmy Buffett’s latest recording session at Shrimpboat Sound next to Schooner Wharf Bar. Have a great time and say hi for us.

Archeo Travels in Iran

Richard C. Young — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 16:26:24 +0000

It’s uncommon to meet women who have recently traveled in Iran. As the owner of a tribal Persian rug gallery in Key West, traveling there regularly is part of my job. Much to people’s surprise, it’s one of the things I love most about my work. Realizing the unique position I’m in, I take the opportunity whenever I can, to share my experiences with others in an effort to dispel some of the myths that surround the Iranian people.

I have found the Iranians to be some of the friendliest, most welcoming hosts. Despite what we hear in the news, the Iranians I meet love Americans. Everywhere I travel in Iran, people welcome me into their homes as though I were family.

The place I spend most of my time is high up in the Zagros Mountains of Southwestern Iran. The Quashqai Nomads have lived there for hundreds of years, herding their sheep and making some of the most beautiful rugs in the world. The women of the tribe weave the rugs . . . one knot at a time. When I travel there, I’m not only hand selecting the rare and treasured rugs called Gabbehs, I’m also connecting with a community of women who are continuing a tradition that has been passed down through generations.
My mission for my gallery is to offer exceptional art and, in doing so, share with my clients the spirit of the individuals who create the work.

Wendy Asplundh
Director
Archeo Gallery
archeogallery.com

Wendy Asplundh in a village on her way to the Zagros Mountains.

Wool being spun by hand.

Women knotting a rug in the shade of a tent.

The beautiful sheep of the Zagros Mountains.

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